The End

It's hard to distill this experience down just solely based on my time in Cairo. My thoughts and beliefs are a cumulation of everywhere I've traveled and all the people I've met and from watching the world simultaneously be built up and suffer under human decay. My words are not meant as an attack against any group of people or cultures – they are simply where I see the world at this time and where I believe changes (much overdue) need to be made.

The time for linear-thinkers is over They've had a good run, they're what has built us up mindlessly to the point we're at now, and we're crumbling. It's time to see the bigger picture and help where needed. Whether it's next door or half way around the world – follow what speaks to your soul. We're all connected – and it's not a linear connection.

Think creatively as it will find more answers to a problem and lends a safe place for different people/cultures to learn more about each other.

There is always room to dream. Dreams are a way to escape where you are – and once you escape you can find your way to any place you want to go – so use your dreams wisely. If you want it bad enough – then go for it and don't give up – get creative – the answers are out there and inside you. Don't let anyone decide your fate. Ever.

The focus on monetary gains is coming to an end. There is little need to consume more than you truly need, for the excess is more than enough to fill the needs of those without. Think quality over quantity, think about who/what you're supporting, think about who you're buying from, where the profit is going. There is so much to choose from in everything you do, every day. Decide consciously.

Don't be afraid to go it alone because you're never really alone. When you're surrounded by people you miss out on personal interactions and miss seeing the deeper beauty the world has to offer – the most amazing things happen when I'm on my own.

This is not meant as a cheap shot at men – I don't hate men. I like/love them and need them in my life for balance. But lets face the facts: over time Men have been poor stewards of the world – they have not made things clean or efficient. They are not smart or thoughtful. This is especially apparent to me in Cairo and was the proverbial straw that broke the camels back. Women need to step up and take responsibility for where we've allowed men to take.
~Would there be so much hate and war if even 25% of the worlds nations were helmed by women?
I seriously don't think so.
~Would women work more thoughtfully for the needs of the disadvantaged? Don't they already?
I think so.
Women don't need titles like men. We don't need awards like men. If anything – we need to step up and set the new standards.

This last was a conversation that was actually initiated one night by Saira (my Pakistani flat-mate) and was a complete surprise to hear my beliefs echoed in her answers to the worlds woes.

Quite frankly, I believe we have the west to thank for much of this. Our demand for bigger and better, the frivolous and grossly unobtainable glamor that we have advertised to the rest of the world through our movies, TV, and magazines are simply unnecessary and unobtainable for most of the world and have taken our focus off what truly matters in life. The effort to create and acquire more than one's fare share has put such a strain on the world that to stop it is going to take so much conscious effort on everyone's part – creativity is crucial to make this doable.

Where am I going with all of this? I don't have a solid answer but a pretty good idea of what I can create in the future. It doesn't have a name or a title but I have a reason and I can dream and envision a better world than the one I'm in – and that's all I need to keep going. I will go back to Cairo and complete another intensive at Fajr – after two more semesters here (plus finish the book that I made ¼ of the way through) it will be a completely new experience – but without the worry of having to figure the city out.

To be continued...

The night isn't over yet....

That rooftop? The building houses many people and artists. Here is one - the business card is upstairs in my room and I'm not in the mood to go get it. I'll post all address/number info later. But this guy worked for Dr. Ragab of http://www.pharaonicvillage.com/ infamy. He's had his own shop for quite some time. And seriously - there is a huge difference between what I bought and what he's doing. The price he is asking is very fair as well...but I'm at the end of my run here. Still - I'm fortunate to have been introduced to this place. This is THE PLACE to go to for papyrus.





There were also two different shops with about five guys (each) making leather shoes. I had no need or use for these shoes but I wanted to buy them all. Just to see them at work - there was a sense of contentment, camaraderie, and peace. And they were so genuinely happy to see me. It was otherworldly. I couldn't/wouldn't ruin it by asking for a picture. I just know now that I've seen people who make less in a year than I make in a month happier (and in a better place) than those people I worked around from Beverly Hills with so much more than I'll ever see. Worlds away in so many ways. And if I had to choose between the two worlds - I know which I would choose.

Then there were the lamps - the shaams - and they really are made by hand in a place smaller than a one car garage


One of the last places we went to was a shop where this guy makes these beautiful backgammon/chess sets with intricate inlaid shell and wood bits. Absolutely beautiful work! The chess pieces are all custom carved camel bone and amazing in detail. He also takes the time to show you the difference between the real shell work versus plastic. His particular shop isn't even big enough to repair a scooter in.

After a few hours of this Ahmad went his own way and I finally made my way back downtown. After dropping off the spices I thought one last bowl of koshary before I pack things up for the flight to Frankfurt in the morning. So I go to the closest place down the street. on the way back some really tall (6' 4") Egyptian says something about dodging traffic. Then says the best koshary is over there - and points to a square (triangle - actually) that I wandered through about 3 weeks ago - but I hadn't thought to find that area - I just wanted the closest and most convenient place. This gentleman - Mohamed who works in Oslo for Amnesty International - insists that he shows me the square since there is also a tea/coffee house that is owned by a Nobel Peace winner. It's after 9pm - I'm exhausted - but I guess from his vantage point he could not see the dark circles under my eyes - he invites me to have tea with him. I had to decline - as I only have about 30 minutes left before I go off line and completely shut down.

The Magic and Mystery of Travel ~ or ~ an example of how I roll

I truly enjoyed the time I spent roaming around with my flatmates – there is so much to enjoy when you're with a group of people. But ultimately – I really didn't know them so there was a comfort level missing. It's not like traveling with you sister. Still – there is something completely magical that happens when you're on your own. And I feel on some level I must take it for granite – and I haven't explained it well nor properly given credit where it's due. But this time...this time I have a fantastic camera that I actually know how to use and I was in one place long enough to be able to document it.

This day was my last day in Cairo. My only day where I was not obligated to open up a book, re-write script, memorize dialogue – it was mine all mine. I tried to photograph everything that I could - at least felt comfortable (some people must be tired of being photographed!). In some instances it wasn't appropriate or it would have opened a can of vipers. But – this is what a day of holiday is like for me. Rather than 2 full weeks it was just one day so it was very clear how my life plays out and how life opens up for me to interact with. These moments that I collect are what I work for. They make the entire year so worth while.

Even though there was only one out of the entire 28 days – it's like an epiphany of sorts. What some people think of as a perfect day I think of as...ordinary bordering on uneventful.

This is how a usual vacation day plays out:

Tuesday after my last test I moved back downtown to stay at Luna Hotel for two nights. Nasr City has nothing to offer but schools, koshary and lots of traffic. I needed to be near the Egyptian Museum and the older part of the city center. The time and money saved by moving downtown was totally worth it.

The days starts out super lazy...and with just cause. I had been given the option of a traditional Egyptian breakfast instead of the ordinary continental – which I accepted since I'd been here for so long and had no idea what a traditional Egyptian breakfast was. And I was told that I could go ahead and be lazy and sleep in (or still wake up early but read a book before rolling out of bed). Which I did...but when I did get around to breakfast – the special Egyptian breakfast was “finished” so sorry. Fine – then the continental but NO NESCAFE INSTANT COFFEE!!! [When did Nescafe unsurp traditional Arabic coffee?!?!] Turkish please...super easy on the sugar, shukran. How quickly one adapts to the local customs – just roll with it and they're all super cool. Note: this happens frequently when you are only one and (more importantly) the type of person who will roll with it – sometimes people need to screw up and know it's ok and not the end of the world.

Egyptian Museum: I am given the typical vague Egyptian directions to the Egyptian Museum “go out, turn left then walk two blocks, turn right and go about 3 or 4 blocks. It's a big red building so you can't miss it”. When in reality – how I navigate is by landmarks (I would have been an awesome navigator 3000 years ago!) like “go out, turn left then walk to the first roundabout with a statue (two blocks: check!) – turn right then walk to the end of the street (8 blocks – double the locals estimate) – where there is a large construction site – walk to the left around it and you'll see the museum just past the 3 gigantic yellow water tanks that ARE COMPLETELY BLOCKING THE VIEW OF THE RED BUILDING” - no one ever mentions the construction stuff since it's everywhere. But in my view all construction is unique and there is something there to use for navigation purposes.

I eventually find a metro that gets me closer and I think rather than go straight through an intimidating police barricade, I thought I'd walk around to make sure that I had the correct entrance. I'm on the other side of the street when a funny little man walking quite similar to the White Rabbit in Alice in Wonderland, rushes by, turns, points and says “ the Museum is over there you should go back and cross” to which I reply “I think I'll keep walking in this direction to see what's over here first then loop around and cross over”. He's still rushing forward as he says “I'm a professor at the American University. I'm a professor in Horticulture, specifically medicinal plants. As a matter of fact I will be going to New York in a few months for a conference.” I think he was trying to reassure me that he was genuinely wanting to direct me to where he thought I should be rather than allowing me to meander around the area. So he continues to talk about plants and specific remedies that they are discovering (actually rediscovering) so I was able to keep up with him as I'd worked around them before and have a wonderfully informed sister who keeps me informed. He was so impressed with that he insisted that I come to his shop for tea before he runs back off to a very important date. Or class to be exact – but he was just like the White Rabbit!!!

Anyways, to make a long story short – I bought a couple of papyrus prints from his shop as I didn't want to deal with essential oils in my luggage and I have great sources in the US – but he did invite me on my next visit to see his family plant farm about 250 km outside of Cairo where they grow local herbal plants and distill essential oils from them. I was also invited to his nieces wedding in a few days but, alas, I am only here for the day now. No pictures = nest of vipers.

Then on to the museum, where I had to check in my camera so – no photos. Which is sad since you cannot even purchase postcards of the cool stuff. You know the movie “Night at the Museum”? I want to spend the night in this place! It's beyond description. It's so ramshackle and slipshod – and I absolutely love it. There were signs everywhere saying do not touch...I did really well up until the end. I had to check to see how solid these black pyramid tops were...and these sarcophagus things....amazingly solid, by the way. And I saw so many local kids touching stuff...and take pictures with their cell phones...dang! This place is beyond description. My recomendation - you have to go – no matter what. And I'm glad I went at the end since I would have obsessed over some of the sections (dead people! dead animals! pleated linen!) and had to return.

Afterwards, I went back to the hotel to drop of the fantastic crap that only museum gift shops sell that I just had to get for my dear family and friends then decided – Spice Market.

So the spice market – the real one not the tourist one – is near the famed Khan El Khalilli market – which is a tourist trap. But it can be challenging to find since the directions are vague at best. So I get a taxi (which the driver looked way too much like Omar Sharif! Awesome!) who dropped me off at a really weird location – so I go the opposite direction, loop around to a fruit and vegetable market – full of locals – no tourists! I'm close! Walking tentatively on the outside of the market - around the corner some young 20-something kid barrels into me. He says sorry – I say no problem – he hurriedly says Khan El Khalilli is on the other side in the other direction to which I reply – I know, but I'm looking for the spice market – the real one. He brightens up and says no tourists go in this area – let me show you....

His name is Ahmad - he is in his final year at the university studying in Antiquities. He has no hope of working in a museum since it's a government run institute but he does lead scuba diving trips in the Red Sea. Someday he would like to visit Lebanon, Iran, Turkey and Jordan. He doesn't want to work on digs in Egypt since they don't pay - but he would work on one in Syria in a heartbeat.

On the way we stop at this coffee seller that has been family owned and run for hundreds of years:




Then we make it to a spice shop that has been selling spices from this location for over 300 years. This business is older than my country. At first Mustafa spoke to Ahmed but was then told that I'd been here for a month to study Arabic language, so he began to talk to me and he spoke slowly and clearly. I understood maybe 20% since I already understood the history of an item - saffron, cumin, fenugreek, black seed oil....he was surprised at what I knew - almost as much as he was surprised that I was looking for a shop like his. But I had learned so much more from him about the different spices, including the trade rountes and agreements....like why does 25 strands of premium saffron cost as much as 25 grams? The answer: the best saffron in the world comes from Iran, 'nuf said.

And here is Mustafa with a shop blend of milk, coconut, sesame seeds, white rasins that you mix with hot milk. in old times it would be sans powdered milk but with fresh camels milk or fresh cows milk which has an amazing amount of vitamins and minerals - added with the coconut, sesames and white rasins - this is a very old egyptian drink. In between teaching me the differnt qualities or uses he would help his regulars. One man in particular sat while he put together his "regular order" which I watched Mustafa put together - I was so intrigued I had to have some.
Here is what he mixed for me:

He was such a proud and kind man and took the time to explain the differences in excellent quality vs. tourist quality (which I'd been schooled in previously - but he wanted to show that he was genuine and kind and wasn't about to cheat anyone muchless a stranger).

This shop, this man, this hour at this shop, and this bag alone is worth the trip. This experience is my motivation. But the night is not over yet. We're at the edge of old Islamic Cairo and there are more handcrafts that are unique to the area, as well as sights, sounds, smells...this is the real place that few tourists find. As a matter of fact - Ahmed pointed out only 3 other tourists that we crossed paths with the entire time.

Egyptian cotton:


The Citadel Mosque at night from a random rooftop


From the same rooftop - the minarets at the gates to Islamic Cairo at night. Yes - my little camera soaked in enough light to show the evening sky through the clouds


This is a place that the poor of the old quarter can go for clean, free water. The "special outfits" can be yours for a special price - I'm sure!


About this rooftop: it's trashed, much like previous posts show rooftops being trashed. But, since this is accesable via stairs from the "street" there area people living here - exactly like the empty lots in Nasr City. What I was unable to capture was a picture of the goat that was roaming around the rooftop. C'est la vie...

postnote: I paid attention to little landmarks - I will find this place again!

I Love the Night Time...

The Arabic word for light is shaams and, might I add, it's written very prettily in script. So, after an moderatly uneventful night out which included dinner at the infamous Felafel (where all the important dignitaries go when they visit Cairo)


Walking around afterwards we came upon El Shaams area which was loaded with light shops punctuated with coffee/shisha bars and little cafes all selling the same thing -koshery. The main streets, side streets, every street filled with lights. Turn a corner and there are more shops, and carts, every type of lighting imaginable - and then some. All. Turned. On. It was like we dropped down a rabbit hole and into these alleys and streets filled with lights. Either that or electricity is insanely cheap due to government subsidies.
Did I mention the restaurant actually served wine? It was only 10 egyptian pounds per glass - they were a bit on the small side - but it felt like I hit the jackpot.
Anyway - these are the only surviving pictures. The others were inexplicably messed up and I'm not sure I could find the place again.







This entire area makes the lighting departments at Home Depot/Ikea look empty.

the Music Man and Child

Cruise the Nile vs. Taken for a Ride

One of the remarkable things to do whilst in Cairo is to cruise the Nile in a felucca and was a must do on Tenday's list, with or without us. I'm sure Fatima will be cursing herself for not coming with us. It starts out with the usual – using the restroom in a posh hotel (current score: four seasons -1, intercontinental – 2, grand hyatt – 1). Apparently I have a 6th sense for finding the restrooms in these places. Maybe someday I'll collect locations w/instruction and post them... As this is Tenday's adventure – she gets to negotiate the cost: 50 LE. Cool. So we get in and a tow rope is given to a little motor boat that tows us out. Nice – but then half way between bridges he drops the rope and we're on our own. The guys unfurl the sail. About 2 minutes into this the girls realize we're not moving. At all.
And here we sat - for 45 minutes

{no comment}

5 classes, two exams and one weekend left.

I didn't come for the religion (since, in my humble opinion, there is only one God/Allah and the message is all the same between religions), though it's an interesting moment when there is a part in the textbook that has verses from the Koran and Madeha will sing them. It's an art to singing the phrases together and the pauses between each stanza (or whatever each entry is called). Great – since my reading is halting and I can't sing – and I don't think interpretive dancing is an acceptable substitute. She makes up for it by making us read and then re-read out loud all the other dialog. (If I were the type of person to get headaches I would have one non-stop from Saturday to Wednesday) Still – it's been suggested by other students to take a Koran reading course since it has all the punctuation (which is critical for pronunciation – since an incorrect stress can mean something opposite, immoral or undecipherable) I might look into that as long as I don't have to sing. And I really hate reading slow.

The intensive is just that. Carolynn (from Sweden) was commenting on how none of us taking an intensive for the first time truly understood how intensive it was going to be. I'm torn between setting up a blog devoted to the Fajr Center experience alone and letting everyone else find out for themselves – just like I did. It's not just what we're learning or how much but then there is the re-writing of all the dialog and/or vocabulary that gets checked and is part of your grade. So – when you're instructed to copy the dialog 5 times it means copy the dialog 5 times and include all fatas, damas, kasras, sekuns, etc... and what is missed is corrected in red pen. 5 times. I'm running out of refills for my mechanical pencil.

There are two sisters from South Africa (one is in our class) – but they keep missing class. Pity to think their parents spent all this money to house them here, pay for schooling and they only show up half the time. Their dad works two jobs – so it's not a cool thing to do (found that out in class during an exercise – it's not like I came straight out and asked them). Madeha (our class instructor) simply threatens to kill her every-time she does make it in since the homework is rarely done. That alone is terribly amusing. She reiterates in English the many ways she will kill her to get the point across. And we're in the lower levels....so I wonder what the she's like teaching the advanced courses?

As for the other girls: the eastern girls (mostly Kazakhstan) keep to themselves. The Nigerians are super friendly – hopefully they'll want to come along on Thursday's adventure/mishaps (by the way: their national team lost against Egypt in the Africa's Cup game last night....they were ok with it since Egypt is out of the next World's Cup so it's a consolation win in their opinion). There is one chinese girl in particular that is quite interesting to observe. She's been in Cairo for two years and is taking level 3 over for the 4th time, yet firmly belives she should be in a more advanced class.

Bored with homework last night, my flat-mates and I went for a walk – not an easy thing to do at night as it isn't how this culture kills time. Last night was the exception since there was literally no traffic as everyone was watching the game. We were able to follow the game results by the cheers and knew when to make straight for the flat.

Tonight – we're going on a felluca ride on the Nile, Tenday's insistence, though she said she'd go with or without us. And since she's a magnet (vortex?!?!) for weird – we're all going. Pictures will follow. We have all been plied with homework for the weekend and have been threated with a little exam on Saturday...we'll have to make everything half day kind of trips. I still need to make it to the Egyptian Museum so Alexandria will have to wait for another time. More than anything, I really want to see dead people. And the vases. But mostly dead people.

two pictures from my balcony of the same mosque

There is no filter or photoshoping to either of these photos. The pictures were taken on separate days by simply stepping out onto the veranda and taking a picture.

This is an average day in Cairo (so dirty you can taste it)


This is a rare day in Cairo


Every day we have a choice in virtually everything we do.

If you don't make a change, who will?

Magical Lamp Lights

These are absolutely beautiful! I want to live here...bare stone walls and lots of silver lamps to light up at night.


I'll go back and see what I can get these for and a smart way to get them back safely.




This makes me think of home.
Minus the salsa and chilango margaritas.


mmmmm....margaritas

Old Mosque

Peaceful Ambience

T-minus 8 days.

Oh – in other news – the class I'm in tests out tomorrow and we continue on with level 1. My flat mates are in level 3 (who have been studying for >5years) will test on Tuesday. There are 20 levels in this school. Several girls who are staying for at least six months are moving to the Al Asalat school – since it's easier. Apparently this is one of the toughest schools.

I'm glad no one told me about this earlier. Really.

The view from my window

Outside across the street:

straight down:


A lot may be cleared for someone to build on – until then, you find lots of this:


Not sure if they are simply there to secure the land and keep vagrants off or if this is where they live until they are removed. Still - there is no such thing as an empty lot. There is space to build on but there is a family (sometimes extended) living on that lot until then. At least they can pirate electricity from the building next door. I'm not saying it's safe, I'm just saying.

Also – in a shell of a building that has no power/water/doors – just a shell of bricks waiting for plaster – there will be a family living there. Including children. There will be piles of building refuse around which the children are playing in, when they're not helping clean up after the workers have gone. I don't imagine they'll make it to school, but I hope I'm wrong.

{speachless}

Outside the buildings – there is a random string of wires. Lots of wires. For a good reason:






We do have A/C. And as long as the wiring insulation holds - there will be a b

finished product?

This place has been rented out numerous times. Judging by the condition of the building (i.e.: dust buildup on the outside of the building) it has been inhabited by paying residents for at least a couple of years.

The Flat - so much for movin' on up

Ironic that I work in a construction law firm. It makes me hyper aware of the construction going on here. Issues? Where to begin....

There is construction going on next door.

Fine finish on the cement – it answers quite a few issues inside the flat I'm staying in.



Come to find out that a building owner only has to pay taxes on a building once it's finished. Until it's finished – what is complete can be occupied. So you see quite a few buildings with very nice finish-outs on the outside and upper floors but the first one or two floors have gaping holes where windows and doors should be. The ground floor is (for the most part) secured. Or at least the entrance for the upper floors has a security door but the rest meant for shops are just walls and places for windows and doors. The front is NEVER landscaped – one is lucky enough to have some marble tiles laid so a floor mat can be put down to scrape the dirt, mud, grime off one's shoes before stepping inside.



The refrigerator. Easy to understand why it's leaning back at that angle.



Again – this is all manual labor. The lot next to the building under construction has been excavated about 15-20 feet down, all by hand. There has been a team of (what looks to be) 20-somethings working all day.

As for drainage – I think there is a sewer drain of sorts in the street – a 6” pipe set off the side of the road. I thought Town Lake was bad....the Nile – OMG! I wouldn't swim in it if my life depended on it. Cairo is in the middle of the flush.